Elie Saab blends 19th-century romance with red carpet precision in fall couture

PARIS (AP) — Elie Saab, the Lebanese designer long favored on the red carpet, returned to familiar territory on Wednesday, with fall haute couture — and did so unapologetically.

Fashion insiders gathered in Paris among marble columns as models descended a gilded stone staircase to the strains of harpsichord music, setting the tone for a collection steeped in historical romance.

Saab leaned into his signature codes: sumptuous velvets, gowns gathered at the back, and pearl and jewel-adorned chokers. Floral appliqués — another hallmark — appeared throughout, anchoring the collection in the romanticism that has defined the house for decades.

This was a particularly thoughtful collection, evoking Romantic silhouettes from the turn of the 19th century in Europe. The soft draping and historical references gave the show a sense of emotional depth beyond its surface opulence.

The color palette ranged from deep emeralds and sapphires to dusky mauves, offering a moody backdrop for the jewel-encrusted embroidery that shimmered under the lights. Among the standout pieces were gowns with cascading trains and bejeweled details, encasing the body in a kind of luxurious cage.

Though luxury and opulence may be Saab’s well-trodden path, he showed that consistency remains its own form of artistry.

Saab’s couture is less about surprise and more about control — control of silhouette, embellishment, and fantasy. Where other houses have veered into avant-garde or gender-fluid territory this season, Saab stayed rooted in his vision of archetypal femininity, shaped by heritage and craftsmanship.

If the show felt familiar at times, it was also undeniably polished — a standout collection that reminded audiences why Saab’s world of embellished escapism continues to resonate.